{"id":10151,"date":"2016-07-02T13:09:18","date_gmt":"2016-07-02T17:09:18","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/experience.transat.com\/budapest-une-ville-deux-faces\/"},"modified":"2024-11-01T15:00:17","modified_gmt":"2024-11-01T19:00:17","slug":"budapest-une-ville-deux-faces","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/experience.transat.com\/fr\/budapest-une-ville-deux-faces\/","title":{"rendered":"Budapest : une ville \u00e0 deux faces"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Ni vous ni moi ne voudrions retrouver ce trait de personnalit\u00e9 chez notre meilleur ami, mais chez la belle Hongroise<\/a>, c\u2019est un atout, car il en r\u00e9sulte deux destinations en une!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Rarement une ville ne m\u2019aura sembl\u00e9 atteinte d\u2019un tel d\u00e9doublement de personnalit\u00e9. Prenez le quartier de Buda, accroch\u00e9 aux collines de la rive ouest du Danube. Au coeur de l\u2019ancien fief des Habsbourg et de Sissi tr\u00f4ne leur somptueux palais, entour\u00e9 de r\u00e9sidences ayant appartenu aux nobles de l\u2019empire austro-hongrois. Dans ces rues proprettes vit le beau monde que nous croisons dans les caf\u00e9s \u00e9l\u00e9gants, aux c\u00e9l\u00e8bres bains Gell\u00e9rt ou sur la promenade du bastion des P\u00eacheurs, le temps d\u2019un selfie avec vue. Puis, prenez le quartier de Pest, qui s\u2019\u00e9tale sur la plaine d\u2019en face et compte pour les deux tiers de la capitale. En comparaison, c\u2019est en quelque sorte la petite s\u0153ur tatou\u00e9e qui se ronge les ongles, travaille au journal d\u00e9jant\u00e9 Pestiside.hu et fait tache au brunch de mamie, le dimanche.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Somme de ces parties, Budapest n\u2019occupe pas moins que la troisi\u00e8me place, devant Prague et Vienne, du palmar\u00e8s des \u00ab25 plus belles villes du monde\u00bb, compil\u00e9 par le magazine Cond\u00e9 Nast Traveler. Et m\u2019est avis que sa dualit\u00e9 y est pour quelque chose\u2026<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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\u2708\ufe0f R\u00e9servez vos vols vers Budapest depuis le Canada avec connectair par Air Transat<\/a><\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n

Les deux c\u00f4t\u00e9s de Budapest<\/h2>\n\n\n
\n
\"budapest\"
Cr\u00e9dit photo: Carolyne Parent<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

Ravie d’une rive \u00e0 l’autre<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Ainsi donc, \u00e0 l\u2019ouest du beau Danube bleu-gris, Buda regarde de haut la d\u00e9gaine cheap\u2019n\u2019chic de Pest. Mais \u00e0 vrai dire, le ravissement est au rendez-vous peu importe la rive sur laquelle on se trouve, ce qui distingue l\u2019une de l\u2019autre \u00e9tant surtout affaire d\u2019ambiance. D\u2019\u00e9glises en complexes thermaux (dont Sz\u00e9ch\u00e9nyi<\/a>, le plus grand d\u2019Europe), en \u00e9difices civils comme en mus\u00e9es (tel celui de la Terreur<\/a>, consacr\u00e9 aux d\u00e9rives communistes), la richesse architecturale du paysage urbain m\u2019a \u00e9blouie.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u00c0 b\u00e2bord comme \u00e0 tribord, l\u2019histoire du pays a marqu\u00e9 la pierre jusqu\u2019\u00e0 la gastronomie. \u00abC\u2019est l\u2019\u00e9pouse italienne du roi M\u00e1ty\u00e1s qui a introduit l\u2019ail, la figue et les p\u00e2tes au pays<\/em>\u00bb, dit Carolyn B\u00e1nfalvi, la sympathique fondatrice de Taste Hungary<\/a>, qui fait go\u00fbter des vins dans sa cave, \u00e0 Buda. \u00abAu XVIe si\u00e8cle, les Turcs y ont apport\u00e9 le paprika, devenu un ingr\u00e9dient-cl\u00e9 de la cuisine nationale, et le caf\u00e9. Et sous l\u2019empire austro-hongrois, que de m\u00e9tissages\u2026<\/em>\u00bb. Sissi, elle, l\u00e9gua notamment sa passion des g\u00e2teaux \u00e0 la seconde capitale de son empire. Quant \u00e0 la communaut\u00e9 juive, elle y apporta sa culture et ses traditions. Ces derni\u00e8res s\u2019y sont \u00e9panouies pendant des si\u00e8cles jusqu\u2019\u00e0 ce que la Hongrie se trompe de camp et choisisse celui de l\u2019Allemagne nazie lors de la Seconde Guerre mondiale. Dans le District 7, je me suis recueillie devant l\u2019\u00e9mouvant monument \u00e0 la m\u00e9moire des victimes de l\u2019Holocauste, puis j\u2019ai c\u00e9l\u00e9br\u00e9 la vie dans la premi\u00e8re boulangerie cach\u00e8re venue.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Au march\u00e9 central de Pest<\/a>, j\u2019ai d\u00e9couvert des kiosques d\u00e9bordant d\u2019artisanat, de m\u00eame que de fromages, de cochonnailles, de vins de la r\u00e9gion de Tokaj, de go\u00fbteux l\u00e1ngos (un genre de focaccia frite), sans parler de foie gras d\u2019oie, dont la Hongrie se targue d\u2019\u00eatre le premier producteur mondial. Avec une telle diversit\u00e9 de denr\u00e9es et une nouvelle vague de chefs, pas \u00e9tonnant qu\u2019on retrouve de plus en plus des plats du genre \u00abpoitrine de canard et sa polenta \u00e0 la p\u00eache\u00bb au menu des restaurants!<\/p>\n\n\n

\n
\"budapest\"
Cr\u00e9dit photo: Carolyne Parent<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

Des bains, des bars et plus encore<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

En tirant parti des nombreuses sources thermales de la ville, les Ottomans ont apport\u00e9 une autre contribution majeure \u00e0 l\u2019art de vivre local: celle du bain. Authentiquement turcs, les Thermes Rudas, \u00e0 Buda, m\u2019ont transport\u00e9e au temps des pachas. Et je ne vous dis pas le bonheur de tremper dans des bassins couverts de mosa\u00efques de Gell\u00e9rt lors d\u2019un \u00absparty\u00bb\u2026 Oui, c\u2019est l\u2019appellation donn\u00e9e par le promoteur local \u00e0 ces soir\u00e9es avec DJ! Avoir eu un peu plus de temps, j\u2019aurais m\u00eame pu me faire enduire de boue remin\u00e9ralisante, comme le veut la tradition, au spa de l\u2019h\u00f4tel Corvinus Kempinski<\/a>. (Non, ne levez pas les yeux au ciel: notre dollar, plus fort que le forint, va loin chez les Magyars\u2026)<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Dans un registre anti-chic, le romkocsma (litt\u00e9ralement \u00abbar en ruines\u00bb) anime la nuit budapestoise. Au d\u00e9but des ann\u00e9es 2000, des jeunes squattaient des immeubles d\u00e9saffect\u00e9s de Pest et y improvisaient des bars. Le pionnier fut Szimpla<\/a>; son succ\u00e8s fut imm\u00e9diat et, depuis, ces \u00e9tablissements, v\u00e9ritables squats ou pas, se sont multipli\u00e9s. C\u2019est ainsi qu\u2019un soir, je me suis retrouv\u00e9e chez Fogash\u00e1z<\/a>, l\u2019ancien cabinet d\u2019un chirurgien-dentiste! Cool, dites-vous? Parfaitement! Tout comme l\u2019ancienne gare routi\u00e8re de Pest reconvertie en centre de design, les sentiers romantiques de l\u2019\u00eele Marguerite<\/a> et le funiculaire pour monter \u00e0 l\u2019assaut de Buda, dont raffolent les enfants.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Au bar branch\u00e9 Blue Fox<\/a>, Bruce Marshall, \u00abmusic sommelier\u00bb de son \u00e9tat ou, si vous pr\u00e9f\u00e9rez, cr\u00e9ateur d\u2019environnements sonores au Kempinski, avait ceci \u00e0 me dire au sujet de sa ville d\u2019adoption:  \u00abc\u2019est un bijou et le secret le mieux gard\u00e9 d\u2019Europe!<\/em>\u00bb. Oui, un bijou double, et m\u2019est avis que le \u00absecret\u00bb ne le restera pas encore tr\u00e8s longtemps\u2026<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u00c0 Vienne qui pourra<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Situ\u00e9e \u00e0 seulement 250 kilom\u00e8tres de Budapest, la capitale autrichienne est une destination compl\u00e9mentaire \u00e0 envisager dans le cadre d\u2019un s\u00e9jour en sol hongrois. En avion (un saut de puce), en bateau (5-6 heures), en train rapide (2 h 45), en voiture ou m\u00eame \u00e0 v\u00e9lo le long du Danube: \u00e0 vous de choisir le mode de transport qui vous convient le mieux!<\/p>\n\n\n

\n
\"budapest\"
Cr\u00e9dit photo: Carolyne Parent<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

Des g\u00e2teaux royalement gourmands<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Les Budapestois sont de fieff\u00e9s gourmands, et pour cause: la tradition p\u00e2tissi\u00e8re hongroise est l\u2019une des plus riches (sans jeu de mots) d\u2019Europe! Pour d\u00e9couvrir ses tortas historiques et mes p\u00e2tisseries coups de coeur, c’est par ici<\/a>.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Personne ne voudrait retrouver ce trait de personnalit\u00e9 chez son meilleur ami. Mais \u00e0 Budapest c\u2019est un atout: il en r\u00e9sulte deux destinations en une!<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":90,"featured_media":30657,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[2137],"tags":[],"destinations":[2038],"travel-themes":[1958,2154],"segments":[],"class_list":["post-10151","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-im-ported-fr","destinations-hongrie","travel-themes-culture","travel-themes-itineraires"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nBudapest: une ville \u00e0 deux faces | Exp\u00e9rience Transat||Budapest: une ville \u00e0 deux faces | Exp\u00e9rience Transat<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Personne ne voudrait retrouver ce trait de personnalit\u00e9 chez son meilleur ami. 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