{"id":11607,"date":"2019-01-07T23:30:53","date_gmt":"2019-01-08T04:30:53","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/experience.transat.com\/decouvrez-canada-dun-extre%cc%82me-a-lautre\/"},"modified":"2024-02-09T11:34:21","modified_gmt":"2024-02-09T16:34:21","slug":"decouvrez-canada-dun-extre%cc%82me-a-lautre","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/experience.transat.com\/fr\/decouvrez-canada-dun-extre%cc%82me-a-lautre\/","title":{"rendered":"Canada, d’un extre\u0302me a\u0300 l’autre !"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

D\u2019un c\u00f4t\u00e9, la plus jeune province du Canada, Terre-Neuve-et-Labrador, de l\u2019autre, plus au nord, un territoire marqu\u00e9 par la ru\u00e9e vers l\u2019or, le Yukon. S\u2019ils sont g\u00e9ographiquement \u00e0 l\u2019oppos\u00e9, ces coins de pays constituent tous deux des terrains de jeu de r\u00eave pour les amateurs de plein air et rec\u00e8lent d\u2019histoires toutes plus savoureuses les unes que les autres.<\/span><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ru\u00e9e vers l’est <\/span><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

En roulant vers L\u2019Anse aux Meadows, \u00e0 l\u2019ouest de Terre-Neuve, on croise d\u2019\u00e9tranges panneaux de signalisation. Un orignal qui \u00e9crabouille le capot d\u2019une voiture? Devant mon air perplexe, Doug, mon guide, \u00e9clate de rire. \u00abIl est particuli\u00e8rement dangereux de conduire ici la nuit, dit-il. Des orignaux peuvent surgir \u00e0 tout moment.\u00bb Bienvenue \u00e0 Terre-Neuve-et-Labrador, o\u00f9 528 448 humains et environ 120 000 orignaux se partagent un territoire de 405 212 km\u00b2 (la France en fait 543 965\u2026). Sans oublier les ours, les caribous et autres li\u00e8vres qui traversent ces cartes postales mouvantes. <\/span><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Apr\u00e8s avoir explor\u00e9 les fascinants Tablelands dans le parc national du Gros-Morne<\/a>, qui t\u00e9moignent du moment o\u00f9 les continents de l\u2019Europe et de l\u2019Am\u00e9rique du Nord sont entr\u00e9s en collision, la route qui m\u00e8ne \u00e0 L\u2019Anse aux Meadows donne l\u2019impression d\u2019aller jusqu\u2019au bout du monde. C\u2019est ce qu\u2019ont d\u00fb aussi se dire les premiers Vikings \u00e0 avoir accost\u00e9 sur la pointe nord de la p\u00e9ninsule, il y a environ 1000 ans. Quand il a foul\u00e9 le sol de cette contr\u00e9e o\u00f9 poussaient en abondance des raisins sauvages, Leif Eriksson d\u00e9cida de l\u2019appeler Vinland. Il faudra attendre 500 ans avant qu\u2019un certain Christophe Colomb \u00abd\u00e9couvre\u00bb le continent\u2026<\/span><\/p>\n\n\n\n

En regardant d\u00e9filer le paysage, je me dis que le pays a beau n\u2019avoir que 150 ans, sa \u00abpr\u00e9histoire\u00bb lui apporte une richesse inestimable. Le lieu historique national de L\u2019Anse aux Meadows permet de remonter jusqu\u2019\u00e0 la plus ancienne preuve de pr\u00e9sence europ\u00e9enne en Am\u00e9rique. C\u2019est ici que des marins scandinaves originaires du Groenland ont construit un petit campement en bois recouvert de gazon. Des animateurs-guides v\u00eatus \u00e0 la mani\u00e8re des Vikings font revivre l\u2019\u00e9poque \u00e0 travers les reconstitutions et les artefacts. Le vent souffle sans rel\u00e2che. Les herbes en broussaille, le d\u00e9cor semble encore plus dramatique. Devant les falaises et les tourbi\u00e8res, on imagine Eriksson et sa bande revenir de la p\u00eache.<\/span><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Le lendemain, \u00e0 St. Anthony, j\u2019aper\u00e7ois mes premiers icebergs. Je croque m\u00eame un morceau \u00e9chou\u00e9 sur la gr\u00e8ve. Dans les restaurants du coin, le chic ultime est de boire un cocktail avec des morceaux d\u2019iceberg en guise de gla\u00e7ons. La compagnie Quidi Vidi propose m\u00eame une bi\u00e8re faite avec l\u2019eau provenant des icebergs au large des c\u00f4tes appel\u00e9e Iceberg Beer. Une lager avec de l\u2019eau \u00e2g\u00e9e de 25 000 ans? Pas \u00e9tonnant que cette bi\u00e8re soit parmi les cinq plus populaires de la province selon la Newfoundland Labrador Liquor Corporation.<\/span><\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u00c0 l’ouest d’\u00e9den <\/span><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

On ne sait jamais sur qui l\u2019on va tomber au Westminster Hotel, surnomm\u00e9 le Pit, \u00e0 Dawson City. Croisera-t-on celui qu\u2019on appelle \u00abCaveman Bill\u00bb parce qu\u2019il a choisi d\u2019habiter dans une caverne, de l\u2019autre c\u00f4t\u00e9 de la rivi\u00e8re? Un mineur, oui, il y en a toujours, qui a fait fortune? Un criminel en cavale? \u00abIci, on ne demande pas aux gens ce qu\u2019ils faisaient avant\u00bb, me glisse l\u2019auteure qu\u00e9b\u00e9coise Myl\u00e8ne Gilbert-Dumas, qui a fait du Yukon le d\u00e9cor de plusieurs de ses livres, dont le roman \u00e0 succ\u00e8s Yukonnaise. Il est vrai qu\u2019\u00e0 Dawson, que l\u2019on surnommait jadis la \u00abParis du Nord\u00bb, tant les lieux que les habitants sont aur\u00e9ol\u00e9s de myst\u00e8re. Tout le monde semble sortir des pages d\u2019un roman. Et puis, on est si loin de tout\u2026 <\/span><\/p>\n\n\n\n

L\u2019un des personnages les plus flamboyants est sans doute le Capitaine Dick, qui accueille les touristes souhaitant devenir membres du tr\u00e8s s\u00e9lect Sourtoe Cocktail Club en avalant un verre d\u2019alcool dans lequel a tremp\u00e9 un v\u00e9ritable orteil humain momifi\u00e9. <\/span><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Quelques rues plus loin se trouve une attraction plut\u00f4t particuli\u00e8re: la moiti\u00e9 de la maison de l\u2019\u00e9crivain Jack London. Son \u0153uvre \u00e9tant indissociable du Klondike, un petit mus\u00e9e lui est consacr\u00e9 \u00e0 c\u00f4t\u00e9 de la partie de sa maison rest\u00e9e \u00e0 Dawson, l\u2019autre ayant \u00e9t\u00e9 transport\u00e9e \u00e0 Oakland, en Californie, d\u2019o\u00f9 \u00e9tait originaire l\u2019auteur de Croc-Blanc. <\/span><\/p>\n\n\n\n

La Yukon Quest, prestigieuse course de tra\u00eeneaux \u00e0 chiens de 1 600 kilom\u00e8tres qui accueille des participants des quatre coins de la plan\u00e8te, passe \u00e9galement par ici. Le parcours suit les traces des chercheurs d\u2019or et des livreurs de courrier du si\u00e8cle dernier. Les participants empruntent le chemin qui relie Fairbanks, en Alaska, \u00e0 Whitehorse.<\/span><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Et si on s\u2019initiait au m\u00e9tier de mineur? Justin Millar, lui, explique aux touristes comment son p\u00e8re a fait fortune (et tout d\u00e9pens\u00e9!), avant de nous enseigner comment prospecter. Bat\u00e9e \u00e0 la main, nous le suivons dans la rivi\u00e8re dans l\u2019espoir de trouver de l\u2019or \u00e0 notre tour. <\/span><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Et les fant\u00f4mes? Car il doit bien y en avoir dans une ville au pass\u00e9 si riche? Il faut dire que tout, \u00e0 Dawson, rappelle le passage des chercheurs d\u2019or. Des guides touristiques les font revivre avec brio, nous entra\u00eenant dans les lieux cl\u00e9s de la ville, comme cette banque o\u00f9 l\u2019on pouvait gagner sa vie en balayant la poussi\u00e8re d\u2019or tomb\u00e9e sur le sol. Au solstice d\u2019\u00e9t\u00e9, sous le soleil de minuit, on devine presque la silhouette de tous ces gens venus pour faire fortune\u2026 <\/span><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Le Yukon, c\u2019est surtout un grand bain de nature. Saviez-vous que le territoire abrite le plus grand champ de glace non polaire et le plus petit d\u00e9sert du monde (2,6 km2 )? Qu\u2019on y trouve certaines des esp\u00e8ces animales les plus rares d\u2019Am\u00e9rique du Nord? Que caribous, loups et grizzlis y c\u00f4toient lynx, renards et oiseaux migrateurs? <\/span><\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u00c9videmment, qui dit nord, dit possibilit\u00e9 d\u2019aurores bor\u00e9ales. C\u2019est principalement de l\u2019automne au printemps, alors que les journ\u00e9es se font courtes, qu\u2019on peut les admirer pr\u00e8s d\u2019un feu de camp ou dans un petit chalet con\u00e7u pour profiter de leur spectacle. Certains guides peuvent m\u00eame vous emmener en tra\u00eeneau \u00e0 chiens pour les observer depuis leur endroit de pr\u00e9dilection.<\/span><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Survolerez-vous les glaciers du parc national et de la r\u00e9serve Kluane, non loin du mont Logan, la plus haute montagne au Canada? Opterez-vous pour du rafting dans les vall\u00e9es du parc Ivvavik ou pour une randonn\u00e9e sur la piste historique Chilkoot? Une chose est s\u00fbre, avec un milieu sauvage occupant plus de 80% du Yukon, vous en aurez plein la vue, peu importe la saison. Et vous vous promettrez de revenir vous aussi!<\/span><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Terre-Neuve-et-Labrador et le Yukon sont g\u00e9ographiquement \u00e0 l\u2019oppos\u00e9, mais constituent tous deux des terrains de jeu de r\u00eave pour les amateurs de plein air.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":84,"featured_media":4847,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[2137],"tags":[],"destinations":[1975],"travel-themes":[1958],"segments":[],"class_list":["post-11607","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-im-ported-fr","destinations-canada","travel-themes-culture"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nCanada, d'un extre\u0302me a\u0300 l'autre! | Experience Transat<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Terre-Neuve-et-Labrador et le Yukon sont g\u00e9ographiquement \u00e0 l\u2019oppos\u00e9, mais constituent tous deux des terrains de jeu de r\u00eave pour les amateurs de plein air.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/experience.transat.com\/fr\/decouvrez-canada-dun-extre\u0302me-a-lautre\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"fr_FR\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Canada, d'un extre\u0302me a\u0300 l'autre! 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