Summers in Spain are hot and crowded, and that’s an understatement. But in the far north of the country, there is a small haven of tranquillity known to surfers and food lovers alike: San Sebastian. Nestled in the curve of the Bay of Biscay, just 20km from the French-Spanish border, it is one of the country’s most attractive cities.
Today, our colleague Frédéric invites you to discover a top destination in northern Spain that is well worth a detour.
Why visit San Sebastián?
Much more than just a seaside resort, San Sebastian stands out for its bilingual character, mixing Spanish and Basque – it’s officially known as Donostia. Renowned for its unique cultural heritage, the city has been shaped by two cultures and two territories that have evolved into one, the Basque Country, for several centuries.
From a tourist point of view, San Sebastian owes part of its fame to the Bay of Concha, surrounded by two rocky eminences, Mount Igeldo and Mount Urgull. It has three magnificent urban beaches. Its reputation as a seaside resort dates back to the 1880s, when Queen Maria Cristina of Spain came here to holiday with her court and the bourgeoisie.
San Sebastian is also famous for its cuisine, making it a place of pilgrimage for gourmets from all over the world. The city has the highest concentration of Michelin stars in the world, with no less than 16. With its pintxos (tapas) bars and traditional cider houses, the city embodies the very essence of gastronomic excellence.
Often referred to as La Belle Easo, the city is a prime destination for those wishing to combine culture, beach and gastronomy in the heart of Spain’s Basque Country. Whether you are a gourmet, sun worshipper or history buff, this city is sure to enchant you.
Visit San Sebastián in 2 days
The beaches of San Sebastián
- La Concha beach: One of the most iconic urban beaches in Spain, perfect for swimming and sunbathing. A lively atmosphere awaits you here! The beach is lined with elegant street lamps and historic buildings.
- Ondarreta Beach: A little bit smaller, this beach is located between the Miramar Palace and Mount Igeldo, and is very popular because of its golden sand.
- Zurriola Beach: More exposed to the sea, so caution for beginners. This beach is mainly used by surfers. Cross it off your bucket list: surf at Zurriola!
Miramar Palace
Take a botanical break at the Miramar Palace and its magnificent garden on Concha Bay. This was the summer residence of Queen Maria Christina and was built in 1893.
Mount Igeldo
Where can you find the postcard image of San Sebastián? On Monte Igeldo! Here, on the rocky outcrop between the sea and the city, you can admire the exceptional panorama from above and watch the fury of the waves breaking on the rocks below. An antique (but fully functional, rest assured) belle époque funicular with wooden carriages will take you to the top in just a few minutes for just a few dollars.
There is also an amusement park at the top for the little ones.
Old Town of San Sebastián
Wander the streets of the Gros neighbourhood and the almost entirely pedestrianised old town. The historic centre of San Sebastián is home to some of the city’s most beautiful buildings, including the Basilica of Santa María, the Church of San Vicente and the Cathedral of the Good Shepherd. At the edge of the neighbourhood is the charming Plaza de la Constitución.
For a unique experience, visit the Teatro Victoria Eugenia, a magnificent neo-Renaissance theatre, for a classical music concert.
Mount Urgull
What better way to end a day in San Sebastián before hitting the pintxos bars? A sunset from Mount Urgull. Facing west, it is the ideal place to watch the night fall over the city and enjoy spectacular views of the sea and the Basque Country.
Excursions from San Sebastián
Would you like to explore the Basque Country during your stay in San Sebastián? There are many places to discover around the city that are easily accessible and very interesting.
- French seaside resorts such as Biarritz or Saint-Jean-de-Luz are less than an hour away.
- To the west are cities such as Bilbao, famous for its architecture and nightlife.
- Gaztelugatxe, made famous by Game of Thrones, is also not to be missed.
- Petritegi Sagardotegia Bodega, a 20-minute bus ride from the city, offers a hearty menu with unlimited cider.
- Take a boat trip around the Bay of San Sebastián, the Cantabrian Sea and the French and Basque coasts.
If you are going on a bus excursion, it is advisable to bring small change, as this is the only form of payment accepted on board.
Where to eat in San Sebastián?
In the evening, the old part of the city takes on a whole new atmosphere. The streets come alive with locals and tourists who enjoy the pintxos bars, the open air concerts and the street performances. It is a festive and fun atmosphere!
To taste the local speciality, first visit La Viña, which has been serving what is considered to be the best cheesecake in the region for almost thirty years. It differs from American-style cheesecakes in that it is crustless and much lighter! Golden on the outside and creamy on the inside, it is made with fresh cheese, sugar, eggs, cream and flour.
Otherwise, in San Sebastián we don’t talk about tapas, we talk about pintxos. These small plates, which vary according to the catch of the day and the chef’s whim, are mainly found in the old town. Here is a list of the best pintxos bars in San Sebastián:
- La Cepa de Bernardo
- Gandarias
- Ganbara
- Bar Martinez
- Bar Sport
- Bar Antonio
How do I get to San Sebastián, Spain?
There are several ways to get to San Sebastián, but we think the quickest is to combine train and plane, departing from Montreal to Bordeaux. The rest of the journey is just 3 hours by TGV to Hendaye and Euskotren, which takes you into the heart of the city.
There are also trains from Madrid and Barcelona, but you will need to allow a few extra hours.
Photo credits: Frédéric Buffaras
