Known as the ‘Land of Teranga’ (Wolof for ‘hospitality’), Senegal is arguably the most approachable West African nation for a first-time visitor. However, a bit of preparation goes a long way in helping you fully appreciate its rich culture.
Your first trip here can feel like a culture shock. Even after many stays, I am still surprised by aspects of daily life in a country where nearly 95% of the population is Muslim and customs differ vastly from those in Quebec.
Having been married to a Senegalese man for 23 years, I experienced his home region, the Petite Côte, as an insider before exploring the rest of the country as a tourist. Between the legendary hospitality, the grandiose seaside scenery, and the deep layers of history, it is a truly unique and captivating destination.
A fascinating African capital: Dakar
Dakar is typically the starting point for most travelers arriving in Senegal. To get your bearings in this sprawling city, booking a guided tour is often a wise first step.
Perched on Mamelles Hill on the Cap-Vert peninsula, the astonishing African Renaissance Monument has quickly become one of the country’s most visited sites since its inauguration in 2010. Standing 52 meters tall, the bronze statue depicts a muscular man, a woman, and a child looking toward the sky. While erected to symbolize the people’s rise from the ashes of colonization and slavery, the monument—championed by the former president—has faced significant criticism, primarily due to its exorbitant cost of 12 billion CFA Francs (nearly $30 million CAD).
Other popular stops include the Notre-Dame-des-Victoires Cathedral (also known as the Cathedral of African Remembrance), which is the largest church in Dakar; the Mosque of the Divinity in Ouakam; and the bustling Ngor Beach.
What do I love most about Dakar? Getting lost in its markets. Regardless of their size, they offer the ultimate snapshot of Senegalese culture. Brace yourself, however, because the lively atmosphere ensures your senses will be bombarded! You must also be prepared for constant and persistent soliciting. It is best to go with a local who can help you navigate the delicate art of negotiation.
The Léopold Sédar Senghor Museum, the former home of the country’s first president and poet, is one of my personal favorites. I also have a soft spot for the Plateau district, home to numerous art galleries such as Hoop Galerie and Quatuor Zerohuit, the latter discreetly marked by a simple logo near the door.
For accommodation, one of my top recommendations is Hôtel Djoloff (around $150/night). It features a restaurant on the third floor that is perfect for unwinding after a day of exploration. Although I enjoy deep cultural immersion, having a comfortable cocoon allows me to better manage the city’s intensity. The rooftop breakfast and espresso machine certainly don’t hurt my well-being, either!
Finally, one of my favorite restaurants, Noflaye Beach (once co-owned by singer France Gall), is located on the Almadies Corniche. It is the perfect spot to enjoy delicious fresh fish and seafood with an exceptional view of the Atlantic, often with surf schools in action nearby.
Gorée Island
About thirty minutes by boat from Dakar, Gorée Island holds immense historical significance as a center of the slave trade on the African coast from the 15th to the 19th century, making it well worth a visit. While the breathtaking beauty of the island’s landscapes strikes you immediately, it is the tragic destiny of the many enslaved people who passed through here that lingers most. One of the emotional highlights is the House of Slaves; I defy you to keep a dry eye when entering. It will undeniably be a powerful moment to include in your travel plans.
Where to travel in Senegal for a 7 to 10-day trip
Located less than an hour from Dakar at the southeastern tip of the peninsula, Toubab Dialao captivates visitors with its spectacular cliffs, beaches, and bohemian spirit. The arrival of artists in the 1980s transformed this fishing village into a living art hub. Suspended between sky and sea, it is a place where art, tradition, and environmental awareness coexist.
For smaller budgets, the Espace Sobo Bade hotel is a great option. Seeming straight out of a storybook, this rustic establishment focuses on creativity and offers numerous art workshops.
In Mbodienne, the Auberge Plein Soleil sits just a stone’s throw from a lagoon that you simply cross to reach the Atlantic Ocean. I love it for its tranquility; it’s the perfect spot to read quietly by the pool after an afternoon at the beach. You can stay there for about fifty dollars a night.
If you are looking for Western-style comfort, a beach for lounging, and a bit more buzz, Saly—also on the Petite-Côte—might suit you better. Several establishments here offer all-inclusive packages.
About fifteen kilometers from Saly, the Bandia Reserve offers the chance to see buffalo, zebras, and giraffes roaming among the baobabs. However, don’t expect a safari on the scale of South Africa or Tanzania; this is a compact wildlife reserve that can be visited in about two hours. Still, it is a delightful experience!
Lake Retba and Bandia, one of Senegal’s main attractions
Lake Retba—Lac Rose, or the Pink Lake—intrigues with its color, which ranges from very vivid to rather dull, caused by the presence of algae. Two elements are necessary for its salt water to turn pink: sun and wind. Very touristic, the site can be off-putting if you visit the most popular sectors during peak season.
During my second visit, a dozen years after the first, in the midst of the crowds, I chose to go to the Gîte du Lac, which defines itself as a “charming camp” set back from the hustle and bustle. I enjoyed a pirogue-type boat tour at the end of the day when most tourists had returned to Dakar. A far cry from my first escapade!
With a bit more time: Sine Saloum
For deeper cultural immersion, Sine Saloum is worth considering. Classified as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Saloum Delta National Park quickly makes you forget the honking horns and exhaust fumes of the capital. Here, you discover one of the richest ecosystems in the world.
While it is simpler to get around the region by hiring a driver to go from one place to another, it is very easy to organize excursions from hotels in the main towns of the region, such as Toubakouta or Sokone.
Accessible by pirogue, the cemetery island of Dioron Boumak, better known as “Shell Island,” is fascinating for its tumuli (mounds) made of piled seashells. There are 28 burial sites presented in this form. It is impossible to forget the sunset I admired that evening, accompanied by the cries, songs, and beating wings of hundreds of birds.
Essential tips for planning your first trip to Senegal
You guessed it: Senegal isn’t a destination to be rushed through with a checklist.
While preparation is key, travelers should avoid planning every minute. Embracing the unexpected is part of the experience. The real magic happens when you let go of your watch, welcome chance encounters, and sync up with the local rhythm.
Is it safe to travel to Senegal, are there advisories or warnings in place?
Generally, yes—especially in seaside resorts and tourist hubs. However, staying informed about the specific regions you plan to visit is crucial. Take time to understand both the culture and the safety landscape. The Government of Canada’s website is an excellent resource for the latest travel advisories. Furthermore, booking through a travel agency familiar with the country can ensure a much smoother trip.
When is mosquito season and what are the vaccine requirements?
July to October is the time of year with the most mosquitoes… and the highest risk of exposure to malaria. Since there is no vaccine against this disease transmitted by flying critters, the best way to protect yourself is to cover up and spray yourself with insect repellent. I strongly recommend consulting your doctor or pharmacist to get a prescription for antimalarial medication. Personally, I would never leave without ensuring my vaccine boosters are up to date and that I have basic medications in my possession, including a strong antibiotic. Consider yourself warned: vaccines are expensive. In any case, do not neglect travel insurance or your health.
What to eat in Senegal?
Senegal’s national dish is Thiéboudiène (or Tiep bou dièn), a flavorful combination of rice, vegetables, and fish that was added to the UNESCO World Heritage list in 2021. Beyond grilled seafood, most visitors fall in love with Chicken Yassa (onion and lemon sauce) and Mafé (rich peanut stew). While meals are traditionally eaten from a large communal bowl using the right hand or a spoon, rest assured that restaurants serve individual portions with utensils.
More tips to remember before flying to Senegal
- Senegal operates on its own clock; delays are simply part of daily life.
- The legacy of colonization remains deep. Westerners are often initially associated with France, but identifying yourself as a Canadian usually opens doors and warms interactions immediately.
- To truly enjoy your trip, leave your Western lens at home. You are diving into a different world, and it is best approached with openness and respect rather than constant comparison to previous destinations.
- Generally speaking, religions coexist well in Senegal. It is not uncommon to see Christians celebrating Muslim holidays and vice versa, even if the wearing of religious symbols is a subject of debate there too.
- Driving here can feel like a wild adventure, and not just because the road conditions can be challenging. Traffic rules often feel optional, and it is not unheard of for police to ask for small bribes at checkpoints. For this reason, many visitors prefer hiring a private driver or taking a taxi rather than renting a car.
- Don’t forget to negotiate, especially in the markets!
