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For many travellers, Italy conjures up visions of Rome, Florence and Venice. But food lovers know that Bologna, affectionately known as La Grassa (“The Fat One”), is the true Italian foodie’s paradise. After all, who could resist the allure of a city famous for its indulgent, slow-cooked sauces and heavenly cheeses?
Situated in the heart of Emilia-Romagna, Bologna is home to Europe’s oldest university and is a city of intellectual energy and tradition. Just a 40-minute train ride from Florence, this stunning medieval city is a feast for the eyes and the palate—and with no crowds, it’s refreshingly affordable.
Mercato delle Erbe
Bologna boasts a fantastic array of markets, but the Mercato delle Erbe stands out as a true local gem. Translated as ‘the herb market’, this place has been buzzing with Bolognese life for centuries. During the day, locals flock here to buy fresh fruit, vegetables, cheeses and meats from regional producers – this is the place to taste authentic Bologna.
In recent years, the market has been transformed into a stylish food hall where Italian street food meets artisan delis and wine bars. In the evening, the atmosphere changes as locals gather for aperitifs, sipping wines and nibbling on cured meats and cheeses in a lively, historic setting. Imagine an Italian food court, but with everything from hand-cut mortadella to rich Parmigiano-Reggiano at local-friendly prices.
Mercato delle Erbe
Via Ugo Bassi, 25, 40121 Bologna BO, Italy
Caminetto D’Oro
Owned by Bologna’s beloved Carati family, Caminetto D’Oro has evolved since the 1980s from a small bakery to a restaurant that’s practically a theatre district institution. Ideal for groups, it serves family-style antipasti, handmade pastas and decadent desserts in an elegant but welcoming setting. The real magic? Almost everything on your plate is made from scratch.
Local favourites include tagliatelle al ragù, a hearty meat sauce that simmers for hours, and succulent cuts of steak from local cattle. Be sure to try the handmade bread – one bite and you’ll understand why Bologna is known as the culinary heart of Italy.
Caminetto D’Oro
Via de Falegnami, 4, 40121 Bologna
Trattoria Anna Maria
For a truly homely meal, Trattoria Anna Maria is a must. Decorated with photos of Italian legends such as Sophia Loren, this unpretentious place is all about the food. Located in Bologna’s historic district, the restaurant has been serving rural Italian dishes for decades. Although Anna Maria no longer cooks, she’s often on hand to welcome guests and ensure her legacy lives on in every tortellini.
Try the iconic tortellini in brodo or the perfectly al dente tagliatelle al ragù. Note: don’t call it “bolognese” – the locals use the term differently! Known for its authenticity, Anna Maria’s pasta is famously labour-intensive, slow-cooked for eight hours to achieve its legendary depth of flavour.
Trattoria Anna Maria
Via delle Belle Arti, 17, 40126 Bologna
Trattoria Leonida
Bologna is full of restaurants with storied pasts, and Trattoria Leonida is no exception. Founded in 1938, this hidden gem has been a neighbourhood favourite for nearly a century. Leonida’s menu is based on hearty Bolognese classics with a twist: it’s famous not only for its pasta, but also for its regional game and slow-cooked meats.
Try the tagliatelle with handmade pasta or venture out with the pheasant, boar or venison options. The menu is extensive by Italian standards, and there’s plenty to choose from even if you’re new to game dishes.
Trattoria Leonida
Vicolo Alemagna, 2, 40125 Bologna
Hands-on pasta making class
Eating in Bologna is a pleasure, but nothing compares to making pasta with your own hands! A cooking class in Bologna is more than just a lesson – it is an immersion in the art of Italian cuisine. Operators like Taste Bologna offer hands-on sessions where you’ll learn to knead dough, roll fresh pasta and make delicate tortellini under the guidance of expert instructors.
You’ll walk away with more than just a recipe; you’ll gain a real appreciation for the craft of handmade pasta. And the best part? At the end of the lesson, you’ll enjoy your creations with a glass of local wine – the perfect culinary finale.
