The Côte Vermeille is where the Pyrenees mountains meet the Mediterranean. This wild, hilly landscape is best explored on winding roads. From sandy beaches to vineyards, French Catalonia stretches from the south of Argelès-sur-Mer to the Spanish border. Along these sublime paths, where vineyards cascade into the sea, stop at Collioure, Port-Vendres, Banyuls-sur-Mer, and Cerbère. Discover this little piece of the Pyrénées-Orientales, with its breathtaking panoramas and elegant simplicity.
The slow life of Le Racou
Houses right on the sand, a long golden beach full of umbrellas and sunbathers, a few blue fishing boats and restaurants that smell of holidays: Le Racou embodies the slow life! We loved having lunch on the terrace of La Table du Racou, an unpretentious and delicious little restaurant just a minute’s walk from the sandy beach – a rare find on the Côte Vermeille. With its bohemian vibe and trendy beach bars, it’s the perfect place to extend your aperitif and enjoy the glorious summer evenings.
The charm of Collioure
A visit to this charming village is a must. Henri Matisse and André Derain, prominent Fauvist artists, painted it in sumptuous, luminous hues. Wander its colourful winding streets and enjoy its turquoise beaches and coves. At sunset, head to the bar La Voile, ideally situated away from the touristy seafront, then move on to one of the village’s delightful tapas bars, such as Casa Gala, where grilled cuttlefish, marinated anchovies and pan con tomate wowed our group. The Wednesday and Sunday markets are also a must-visit to stock up on fresh produce and improvise a picnic on the nearby beach.
The delights of Port-Vendres
In this quiet fishing port, dine at the Côte Vermeille restaurant, which offers an uninterrupted view of the harbour and a refined menu at reasonable prices. The wine list offers a selection of regional wines to accompany your squid and octopus or a fine cut of beef. Seafood lovers? Head to the Poissonneries de la Côte Catalane restaurant next door. Their seafood platters – oysters, mussels, prawns, mussels and clams – are huge and very fresh: pure bliss. When you are satisfied, enjoy the last rays of the sun at Anse de l’Espeluga, a small secluded cove near Le Poisson Rouge restaurant. The crystal clear waters and the tranquillity of the place are sure to delight you.
Wine tourism in Banyuls-sur-Mer
Covering 1,600 hectares, the terraced vineyards of the Côte Vermeille create a beautiful patchwork landscape. Winegrowers produce Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée and local wines: Collioure, Banyuls Grand Cru, Banyuls and Côte Vermeille in red, rosé and white. The vineyards of Banyuls, nestled between the sea and the mountains and bathed in sunlight, produce excellent natural sweet wines, perfect as an aperitif or dessert. The Terres des Templiers winery offers tours and tastings, with stunning views of the sea. A must!
Dive into clarity
From coves to calanques, our favourite is Plage de l’Ouille, where the water is incredibly clear. Heading south, the stunning views from the Cap Béar lighthouse are well worth a look, as are the small coves accessible by foot. Just before Banyuls-sur-Mer, throw your towel on the secluded Cap des Elmes. For a family adventure, head to Peyrefite beach, where a snorkelling trail will take you past octopus, jellyfish and moray eels. Coastal paths will take you to more secret beaches and natural treasures.
When to visit Collioure
April to June or September and October for a quieter experience. The Côte Vermeille is particularly busy in July and August due to the French school holidays.
All photo credits: Laure Juilliard
