While the temptation to leave Zagreb and head to Croatia’s popular Adriatic coast cities like Split and Dubrovnik, or the islands of Hvar and Brač, is strong, the country’s capital is well worth a few days of exploration. We spent three days there, trying to decipher its complex personality, torn between its status as a modern capital, its communist legacy, and its recent history as a survivor of the 1991-1995 war.
Far from the hustle and bustle of the major European capitals, Zagreb, with its 780,000 inhabitants, has the charm of a small town. As you explore it on foot or by tram, you may find yourself comparing it to Munich, Germany.
The heart of Zagreb: Ban Jelačić Square
Like any good European city of this size, its central gathering place is a large square.
At the heart of Zagreb, Ban Jelačić Square unfolds around the statue of General Josip Jelačić, which was dismantled during the Soviet years and later restored in 1990. Surrounded by shops, hotels, cafés, and restaurants—along with the city’s main tram lines—this square is the perfect place to take in the city’s rhythm and observe the daily life of its residents.
We frequently took a seat on a terrace to enjoy a local beer, Croatian wine (which is excellent!), or a creamy coffee. The Croatians even have a name for this leisurely activity: špica! And what better place to practice it than the city’s main square, the meeting point between Zagreb’s two main districts: Gornji Grad (Upper Town) and Donji Grad (Lower Town).
Gornji Grad: the upper town
You can reach the Upper Town by climbing the steep streets around the main square or by taking the stairs leading to Dolac Market, where locals shop daily for fresh flowers and produce. We weaved through the vibrant market stalls, heading toward Kaptol Street, which boasts some of the city’s most colorful buildings and leads to Zagreb Cathedral. Interestingly, this neo-Gothic cathedral is surrounded by fortifications built in the 15th century to protect it from Ottoman invasions.
After a brief visit to the cathedral, we continued to Ivana Tkalčića Street, where lively terraces, restaurants, and small designer boutiques tempted us. We indulged in another round of špica! before moving on to Stone Gate, the only surviving gate from the fire that devastated the Gradec neighborhood in 1731. Beneath the vaulted passage, dozens of candles are left by visitors in front of an image of the Virgin Mary, miraculously spared from the fire. Locals kneel in prayer, turning this pedestrian walkway into an unexpected site of devotion in the heart of the city.
We then ascended Kamenita Street (yes, the Upper Town involves a lot of uphill walking!) to reach St. Mark’s Church, located in the political hub of the city. This square houses the Croatian Parliament, the Supreme Court, and various embassies. The church itself is not imposing in size, but its brightly colored tile roof is stunning.
Just a short distance away, you can visit the Croatian Museum of Naïve Art (1 Ćirilometodska Street) or the Museum of Broken Relationships (2 Ćirilometodska Street). We opted for the latter due to its unique and imperfect charm! While the items on display vary in significance, they all share a common theme: they were witnesses (or causes!) of the end of a romantic relationship.
From there, we followed Dverce Street to Strossmayer Promenade, which offers breathtaking views of the Lower Town. With its urban art installations and biergarten-style tables and chairs, it’s a popular gathering place for Zagreb’s artistic crowd—also a fascinating group to observe! After yet another well-earned break, we descended into the Lower Town via a series of shaded staircases, a delightful walk surrounded by trees.
Donji Grad: the lower town
The Lower Town is characterized by a sequence of parks, statues, and museums forming a large “Green Horseshoe” (U-shaped park system). One side of this U stretches from Zrinjevac Park—our favorite, with its music pavilion, benches, and fountains—toward the Strossmayer Gallery of Old Masters. The route continues straight to the Modern Gallery, passing through Josipa Jurja Strossmayer Park and reaching the Zagreb Art Pavilion (Umjetnički Paviljon).
At the base of the “Green U”, you’ll find the Botanical Garden, home to 10,000 plant species, which connects to the other side of the U. This section features the Ethnographic Museum, the Mimara Museum, and the Croatian National Theatre, all housed in elegant ochre, yellow, and white buildings surrounded by tranquil green spaces. This mix of culture and nature completely captivated us!
Beyond the city center
Zagreb and its surroundings offer museums, natural sites, and historical landmarks for those who wish to extend their stay and venture outside the center.
- Outdoor enthusiasts can explore Maksimir Park, Bundek Lake, or Jarun Lake.
- History lovers can visit Medvedgrad Fortress, built in the 13th century within Medvednica Nature Park, or Veternica Cave, which holds prehistoric remains.
Additionally, several day trips are possible from Zagreb. Croatia’s affordable and efficient intercity bus network makes it easy to visit nearby towns such as Samobor and Varaždin, both less than an hour’s drive from the capital.
Zagreb insider tips
Shopping
Want to grab a pair of Startas sneakers, the iconic footwear worn by schoolkids during the communist era? Produced by Borovo since 1976, they’re best purchased in spring, as stock runs out quickly by the end of the season—just like in the old days!
Our favorite restaurants
- Lari i Penati – 42A Petrinjska Street
- Mundoaka Street Food – 2 Petrinjska Street
- Johann Frank – Ban Jelačić Square
- Otto & Frank – 20 Ivana Tkalčića Street
Zagreb is a charming, vibrant city that beautifully balances history, modernity, and a relaxed lifestyle. Whether you visit for a quick stopover or an extended stay, its unique character makes it well worth exploring.
