The air in Marseille holds an irresistible quality: the hot breath of the Mistral wind, the golden-orange light reflecting off the facades, and the vibrant blue sea—it’s an instant invitation to vacation. Despite the overnight flight and jet lag, a surge of energy washes over me the moment I arrive. I immediately feel the urge to wander the streets of the Phocaean city, settle onto a terrace to enjoy local flavors and sweet rosé, and stretch my legs along its endless corniche.
From the Notre-Dame de la Garde basilica to the Château d’If, taking in the Old Port, the Panier district, the Mucem, and other essential sights, Marseille proves it’s much more than just a destination. It’s an attitude, an accent, and a perfume; you don’t merely visit this city—you make it your own.
Beating jet lag with flavor
I barely had time to settle in before I allowed the city to greet me in its most beloved fashion: around a table.
My first destination was Les Grandes Halles du Vieux-Port, a vast covered market overflowing with tempting aromas, bright colors, and delicious plates. With the sun shining, I chose a spot outside for lunch. Offering everything from seafood and mezze to fresh bread and sweets, there was genuinely something for every palate.
Things to do in Marseille: Strolling the historic Old Port
The next day, after a restful night, I opened the shutters of my room at the Maison du Monde. The city was just waking up; I watched the masts swaying, the dawn gently illuminating the rooftops, and the fishermen already hard at work. The Vieux-Port truly is the city’s ceaseless beating heart.
Beneath the Ombrière, a strikingly modern canopy by Norman Foster, I paused to photograph the reflections of passersby. Fishermen had been there since dawn, selling their morning catches—sea bream, red mullet, octopus. While I confess it’s not my favorite scent so early in the day, their enthusiasm was absolutely contagious, and I found myself longing to hear the sailors’ stories hidden behind their weathered faces.
Walking along the quays, I soak up the maritime atmosphere, enjoying a beautiful view of Notre-Dame de la Garde visible between the docked boats. Continuing along the waterfront, I come upon Fort Saint-Jean and its neighbor, the Mucem (Museum of Civilizations of Europe and the Mediterranean). Rudy Ricciotti’s architecture for the museum is striking, evoking the look of coral—and that splendid rooftop terrace absolutely deserves a special mention!
Exploring Le Panier
I ducked behind the Old Port and plunged into Le Panier, Marseille’s oldest neighborhood. As the quintessential Provençal postcard, it’s a delightful maze of stone stairways, windows draped with drying laundry, flowered squares, and vibrant murals. Wandering through Rue du Panier, Place des Moulins, Rue du Petit-Puit, and Place de Lenche, it’s easy to just let your curiosity be your guide. Nearby, La Vieille Charité, a mandatory stop, is a 17th-century hospice that now hosts cultural events.
Before heading out, I stopped to admire the majestic Cathédrale de la Major. Its alternating light and dark Byzantine-style stones are incredibly striking, silhouetted powerfully against the blue sky. This masterpiece imposes a moment of silence, even amidst the lively energy of Marseille.
A taste for pastis
I’m generally not a fan of anise-flavored products, but being in the capital of pastis, it felt mandatory to participate! Just a short walk from the port, Mx Expérience (located in the Docks Village) offers a space dedicated to anise and the Marseillais way of life. The story of pastis is beautifully told through images, scents, and flavors in this highly engaging, interactive setting. While you’re there, you can also settle in to enjoy simple, delicious food, ideally accompanied by a Lillet Tonic—which is officially my new favorite cocktail.
Between the sea and the Corniche
From the port, you can catch a bus straight to the Corniche Kennedy. This three-kilometer-long seaside promenade, essentially one long bench, is perfect for quiet contemplation. I could easily spend every day here, watching the boats sail, joggers pass by, and swimmers enjoying the Plage des Catalans.
A true hidden gem is the Vallon des Auffes, a tiny fishing port tucked away between two cliffs that you need to know about to find. Its colorful cabanons (small waterfront fishermen houses), bustling terraces, and perfectly chilled rosé make it the most idyllic stop to cap off the day.
Panoramic views from Notre-Dame de la Garde Basilica
You simply cannot visit Marseille without climbing up to Notre-Dame de la Garde. While the ascent is steep, a bus thankfully runs there regularly. Access to the basilica may occasionally be closed depending on mass or visiting hours, but the unbeatable view is always available. It is utterly breathtaking: the Old Port, the Frioul islands, the Château d’If, the glittering sea, and the sun painting the sky—all watched over by the statue of the Virgin Mary, affectionately known as the bonne mère (good mother), the city’s enduring symbol. This truly is the perfect Marseille postcard!
Celebrating on Cours Julien
While I didn’t get to experience the nightlife on this trip, I heard great things about the party scene in Le Cours Julien. This district, which used to be a flower market, is now a vibrant canvas filled with graffiti, bohemian terraces, and talented street musicians. It has become a genuine playground for artists and creators, and consequently, a perfect destination for a night out. Even if you don’t stay out late, it’s still quite pleasant to explore the area during the day.
Sailing to the Château d’If, the Frioul Islands, and the Calanques National Park
A brief boat ride from the Old Port instantly whisks you away to a different world—a maritime one. Your first destination can be the Château d’If, the historic fortress at the heart of The Count of Monte Cristo, which sits like a crown on the Frioul Islands archipelago. From this essential vantage point, you are treated to a stunning view back toward Marseille—its waterfront and Old Port—where you can almost feel the city’s pulse echoing across the channel.
Continuing onward, the Calanques National Park offers a rugged escape, defined by stunning cliffs, hidden coves, and striking turquoise water. Although choppy seas prevented me from exploring them by boat as planned, you can also hike the trails to discover its coveted beaches. This site is truly a highlight, and you should dedicate at least one day of your Marseille trip to exploring a part of it, whether on land or sea.
Marseille on a plate
Marseille’s soul is truly revealed through its cuisine. By expertly blending Provençal traditions and Mediterranean bounty, the city offers generous, fragrant dishes that you won’t soon forget.
- Start with the essential bouillabaisse, served with garlic croutons and golden rouille (saffron-mayonnaise).
- The culinary discoveries continues with crispy panisses, various tapenades, and freshly caught seafood. I even enjoyed incredible traditional pizza, a savory inheritance from Marseille’s Italian neighbors.
- For dessert, be sure to try the orange blossom navette (a boat-shaped cookie) or an Aix calisson (a sweet confection of candied fruit paste and marzipan)—both guaranteed to melt deliciously on your tongue.
Eager to return
Beyond the light that still illuminates my memory, what I adore about Marseille is its undefinable blend: it thrives with one foot in tradition and the other in modernity. This proud, popular city is rough yet welcoming, noisy yet poetic, all at once. Every time I depart, I carry the scent of orange blossom, the memory of the wind, and an intense eagerness to go back!
