From the plane, the archipelago of Bocas del Toro in the extreme northeast of Panama looks like a dream come true. Nine main islands, 200 islets, and 52 sandbanks spread over 400 square kilometers blend into the Caribbean Sea in shades of turquoise green. The sight evokes a longing to land on one of these (almost) lost paradises and never leave. Between a chic and eco-friendly overwater hotel, a hilltop farm specializing in organic cocoa, a breathtaking surf spot, and a lodge hidden in the jungle, the temptation to abandon urban life is strong. Embark with us on this memory-filled journey.
Isla Bastimentos: An eco-design paradise
Isla Bastimentos, one of Panama’s largest islands, is accessible by a small motorboat. Known as the most eco-friendly island in the archipelago, it’s no surprise that you won’t hear cars—there simply aren’t any. Instead, nature takes center stage, with tropical wildlife, gentle water lapping, and the whispering wind.
Where to stay on Isla Bastimentos
Stay at Eclypse de Mar, an eco-resort featuring charming over-water bungalows on the edge of a nature reserve. These intimate, water-level villas combine rustic charm with luxury, creating a relaxed and deeply soothing experience. The king-size canopy bed, private terrace, and 180-degree ocean views are highlights. Moreover, the décor includes beautiful shells, glass bottles, African masks, and floral arrangements. The atmosphere is exquisite, enhanced by the local Afro-Caribbean cuisine at the hotel’s guest-only restaurant. Breakfast, included in the room rate, can even be served in bed upon request. Honestly, it was hard to leave!
What to see on Bastimentos Island
The village of Bastimentos exudes relaxation. As you explore, you’ll notice the island atmosphere, where time seems suspended, is palpable. Restaurants and small hotels line the sea, each with its private dock for visitors to disembark. Since transport in Bocas is mainly by water, you can easily hop between islands for just a few dollars. Colorful huts line a narrow road where children play and locals stroll. For a short hike, a 15-minute walk leads to Up in the Hill Eco Lodge, an organic cacao farm, café, and eco-shop. It offers a refreshing break in a lush setting where famous red frogs hide among giant tropical plants. It’s also the gateway to Wizard Beach, a beautiful, well-preserved surf spot with strong currents.
For a more lively atmosphere, head to Isla Colón, the most tourist-friendly island in Bocas del Toro. Here, you’ll find souvenir shops, fusion restaurants, and bars overlooking the ocean. Is it authentic? Not exactly. But is it full of energy? Absolutely!
Isla Colón: Sea, Surf & Sun
Where to stay in Isla Colón
We chose to stay at the Tesoro Escondido Eco Lodge. Slightly isolated from the hustle and bustle of Bocas (about a 15 minute drive from the centre), this simple, tranquil and rustic place blends seamlessly into the jungle and offers an elevated 180 degree view of the sea. Expect a visual and auditory shock! The multi-storey construction gives the feeling of being in a tree house, with hammocks scattered around for relaxation, communal meals at a communal table, and a peaceful atmosphere where the only sounds are the crashing waves and birdsong.
What to see on Isla Colón
Bocas is known for its exceptional surfing spots. Experienced surfers congregate at Playa Bluff, a huge, wild sandbank divided into several small beaches. The untamed nature and massive, uncontrollable waves make for an impressive spectacle. Sitting on a rock, I was fascinated by the sensual yet violent relationship between man and the sea. For those who prefer to swim, there is a beautiful beach on the north side of the island (about a two-hour walk from Playa Bluff). Bring water and patience, as the journey is said to be well worth it.
To get a glimpse of the archipelago, there are numerous boat tours available at very reasonable prices (from $20 per person). A day at sea aboard a small motorboat will take you to Bahia de los Delfines, Cayo Coral and Cayos Zapatillas. This magical day trip includes encounters with dolphins, starfish, enchanting birds and a stop at a sublime island worthy of a glossy magazine cover. With more time, we would have loved to do them all!
Where to go out on Isla Colón
Back in Bocas, grab a drink at Selina, a stylish and airy hostel where you can relax in hammock chairs and sip a local Atlas beer. Locals also recommend Barco Hundido, Iguana Bar and the bookstore. For a more local vibe, La Cabaña is the place to be, away from the tourists. The night promises to be long…
Photo credits: Laure Juilliard
Cover photo credit: Tourism Panama
