Most likely, you’re familiar with tequila, the alcoholic beverage that might have punctuated some of your more spirited university nights. This iconic drink, hailing from Mexico—specifically the Tequila region within the state of Jalisco—ranks among the top three best-selling spirits globally. During our visit to Guadalajara, a city roughly sixty kilometers from Tequila itself, we immersed ourselves in this national pride and its intricate production process from start to finish. For anyone planning a trip to the heartland of blue agave, this day trip is a must! Indeed, the stunning landscapes of this specific region have earned UNESCO World Heritage site status, and the production of tequila now benefits from a protected designation of origin by the Mexican government, ensuring standardized practices. Tequila in Mexico is not to be trifled with!
Our journey led us to Hacienda Herradura, a historic estate dating back to 1870, nestled in the undeniably charming small El Tequileño village of Amatitán.
What is tequila made of: a glimpse into the origins of Blue Agave Tequila
Surprisingly, the story of tequila’s discovery predates the arrival of Spanish colonists in the16th century. The blue agave plant, a true emblem of this region, once flourished on the slopes of its volcanoes. Local lore recounts a stormy day when lightning struck an agave, cooking it and releasing a sweet scent. Intrigued, the inhabitants are said to have tasted this transformed plant, gradually incorporating it into their diet as a natural sweetener.
The initial stage of what would evolve into tequila production, the traditional fermentation process, occurred naturally under the sun. However, the native yeasts present often led to undesirable side effects upon consumption.
It wasn’t until the Spanish conquest and the introduction of distillation that the process refined, ultimately giving rise to the tequila we recognize today.
How and where is tequila made in Mexico?
Cultivating the blue agave
The cultivation of blue agave is remarkably straightforward, demanding minimal nutrients and water. Furthermore, these plants are naturally prolific, with each mature agave yielding between 5 and 15 offshoots—small plantlets ready for separation and replanting. This method of vegetative propagation significantly shortens the time to maturity, requiring approximately 7 years compared to the lengthy 25 years it would take to grow from a seed.
Harvesting the piña
Continuing our exploration, we uncover the fascinating stages of tequila’s creation. Contrary to initial assumptions, it’s not the agave leaves that are utilized, but rather its heart, affectionately called the piña by locals due to its pineapple-like appearance once the leaves are removed. These piñas are surprisingly heavy, weighing in at 5 to 80 kilograms each! With a bit of luck, one might encounter a skilled jimador diligently cutting away the tough outer leaves of the heart, preparing this valuable raw material for its transformation.
The cooking process
At Hacienda Herradura, which boasts extensive plantations in the area, the piñas arrive daily for the next critical step: cooking. This slow and meticulous 26-hour heating process sees each agave heart carefully placed by hand into traditional ovens and, once perfectly cooked, removed with equal care. The result? A surprisingly sweet heart, subtly reminiscent of rich maple syrup—a true delight! Following this, powerful milling machines extract the precious sweet juice from the cooked hearts, which is then meticulously transferred to fermentation tanks.
Fermentation and distillation
The fermentation process at El Tequileño’s Hacienda Herradura is entirely natural. Open tanks allow wild, airborne yeasts to inoculate the must. Notably, the presence of numerous fruit trees on the estate subtly influences each fermentation, contributing unique aromatic profiles to the tequila.
Once this crucial stage is complete, the resulting liquid is known as Mosto Muerto. A first distillation yields ordinario, a blend of three distinct alcohols, which is then redistilled to isolate the pure ethanol. This ethanol is subsequently patiently aged in white oak barrels for varying periods, ultimately defining the tequila’s final product.
The moment of truth: identifying the best tequila from the cheap tequila
Okay, so you’ve braved the distillery tour and now you’re practically a tequila production guru. But let’s be real, the real fun begins when it’s time to drink!
Tequila is primarily categorized into three expressions based on aging: Plata, characterized by its freshness and minimal oak contact (around 45 days); Reposado, which gains aromatic complexity from an average of 11 months of oak aging; and Añejo, representing a more extended maturation period, typically two years.
Becoming a discerning tequila enthusiast is an art in itself! o help you sniff out the fine tequila and dodge those “mystery solvent” subpar imposters, seasoned tequila drinkers swear by these three super-sleuth tests:
- The swirl test: Give your tequila glass a little bit of a swirl. If you see a frantic party of tiny bubbles that just won’t quit, that’s a bit sus. The good stuff throws bigger, more laid-back bubbles that take their sweet time to disappear. Think quality over quantity in the bubble department!
- The touch test: Place a tiny drop of tequila on the back of your hand and rub it gently. A silky water-like texture is a good indicator. But if it’s sticky like a spilled soda or feels weirdly oily, proceed with caution!
- The smell test: Gently bring your hand to your nose for a sniff. You’re hoping for a cool mix of plant-like aromas, maybe some fruity or spicy hints. If all your drink smells is something that could power a race car or clean your countertops, well, that might be a tequila to politely pass on.
Practical information for a tequila excursion from Guadalajara, Mexico
Where does tequila come from: the city of Tequila, state of Jalisco, Mexico
There are plenty of tequila distilleries within an hour of Guadalajara.
From Guadalajara’s terminal vieja (old bus station), take a bus to Amatitán. Hacienda Herradura is conveniently located just at the entrance of the village on your right and is very well signposted.
How to drink tequila in Mexico?
Contrary to a common misconception, high-quality tequila in Mexico is best enjoyed without the traditional salt and lime or lemon. The preferred method involves a mindful tasting, taking the time to appreciate the initial aromas with each small sip and allowing for oral aeration to fully express the flavors.
Tasting tequila and learning about production in a distillery in Mexico
The entrance fee for the 1 hour 45 minute tour (available in English and Spanish) is 230 pesos, which includes a tasting of three tequila types. For those wishing to sample premium tequilas, a small additional fee may apply.
All photo credits: Rachel Latour/Découverte Monde
