You can see them rising with dignity, standing alone or in clusters. Some are painted, others are not. But all are beautifully carved, showcasing supernatural creatures and fabulous animals intertwined in ways that inspire awe. Of course, I’m talking about totem poles!
These mysterious poles are inseparable from British Columbia. Using the “tree of life” that is the cedar, artists from First Nations communities have carved the history and feats of their people. You can recognize the animals that protect the clans: the frog, symbolizing generosity; the bear, representing the spirit of sacrifice; and the raven, which embodies the spirit of transformation. But the most important of all these creatures is undoubtedly the Thunderbird, a mythical eagle that, legend says, rolls thunder under its wings, shoots lightning from its eyes, and brings down rain from a lake on its back.
Along the northwest coast of the country, this Thunderbird is at the heart of many Indigenous legends. One such tale recounts how one day it pulled a voracious whale from the sea—a whale that had caused a great famine among a group of fishermen—and turned it into a mountain near Duncan, on Vancouver Island!
In the mid-19th century, many totem poles were destroyed at the request of missionaries, who saw them as objects of pagan worship. Later, many others were taken to foreign museums. Countless more deteriorated over time before they could be reproduced. However, some magnificent specimens remain, telling the rich stories of Canada’s First Nations. Here’s where you can admire them in and around Vancouver.
In Vancouver
- The Museum of Anthropology at the University of British Columbia has a beautiful collection of totem poles in its garden area. The building itself is a marvel to see.
- In downtown Vancouver, Stanley Park is home to several totem poles. At Brockton Point, you can admire the work of artists from several communities, including the Coast Salish, Squamish, Musqueam, and Tsleil-Waututh.
- On Hornby Street, you can explore contemporary Indigenous art from Canada’s northwest coast at the Bill Reid Gallery. For reference, Mr. Reid was a multidisciplinary artist from the Haida Nation.
In North Vancouver
- Capilano Suspension Bridge Park features an important collection of totem poles. Many of them were carved on-site, including by Haida and Tlingit artists.
On Vancouver Island
- In Victoria, you can admire impressive totem poles at Thunderbird Park and the Totem Hall at the Royal British Columbia Museum. Also, Beacon Hill Park is home to one of the tallest totem poles in the world (38.9 m).
- In the Cowichan Valley, in Duncan, around 40 carved totem poles stand throughout the streets, offering a stunning sight!
- To learn more about the totem poles of British Columbia, check out Totem Poles by Pat Kramer.
