Alongside state-run restaurants for tourists and home cooking (the famous paladares), a new culinary scene is slowly but surely emerging in the Cuban capital: private restaurants. Thanks to the economic reforms, young chefs are now offering inventive cuisine, born out of the challenge of scarce food supplies. To discover these new spots, keep your eyes peeled as many of them have rooftop terraces! Here are eight places we love, both for their menus and their modern, trendy vibes.
San Cristóbal
Not to be confused with the well-known paladar by the same name, this San Cristóbal is a panoramic restaurant adjoining the rooftop pool of Havana’s first post-revolution luxury hotel, the Gran Hotel Manzana Kempinski. Chef Iván Álvarez specializes in Caribbean cuisine and seafood. Tempting dishes include his lobster, shrimp and squid risotto with a hint of grappa, and Bucanero beer-braised lamb.
O’Reilly 304 and El del Frente
Here are two “twin” restaurants, both belonging to the same owner and famed for their creative cocktails. O’Reilly 304 (named for its street address) occupies a former toy warehouse. On the ground floor, you’ll find the bar, and upstairs, the dining room, its walls adorned with the owner’s artwork. Across the street at number 303, El del Frente serves up a mango, lime, and ginger daiquiri that’s a must-try! The fish tacos are also highly recommended. (O’Reilly 303 and 304)
El Chanchullero
Hemingway never came here—or so says the sign at the entrance, adding a playful touch to this quirky spot. This unassuming “scoundrel” (or chanchullero) serves excellent tapas, best enjoyed on the rooftop due to its tiny interior. (Teniente Rey, 457A)
Al Carbón
As its name suggests, every dish here is cooked over a wood fire—currently a culinary trend worldwide but a return to tradition for Cubans. For grilled beef and rabbit, this is the place to be! (Aguacate, 9)
Iván Chef Justo
Neighboring Al Carbón on the corner of Aguacate and Chacón, Iván Chef Justo is another magnet for food lovers. Among the recommended dishes, the chef’s fish stew stands out. The décor features nostalgic photos of famous stars from yesteryear.
Cinco Sentidos
Photo credit: Carolyne Parent
This welcoming open-kitchen restaurant reimagines Cuba’s traditional “three Ps” (chicken, pork, and fish) and also serves confit rabbit! (San Juan de Dios, 67)
El Cocinero
This former vegetable oil factory, known as El Cocinero, has been transformed into an elegant restaurant. The rooftop terrace is an inviting spot to enjoy sesame-seared bonito tataki and other seasonal tapas. (Calle 26 / esquina 11; on the border of Vedado and Miramar)
Cover photo credit: Gran Hotel Manzana Kempinski